Buy vs. lease

Buy vs. lease: compare the full cost, not the payment

Learn how to compare buying and leasing a car using equity, mileage, fees, repeated lease cycles, resale value, and total ownership cost.

Prepared from the sources listed below and checked against the published CarCost methodology. CarCost is independent of dealers, lenders, insurers, manufacturers, and vehicle marketplaces.

If the payment is already stretching the household budget, begin with the full car-affordability guide before comparing contract structures.

If the purchase offer includes promotional financing, also compare cash with a 0% APR offer.

For a feature-by-feature look at tools that handle lease and purchase math, see the car-calculator comparison.

Compare the same amount of transportation

A three-year lease should not be compared with a seven-year purchase as though both decisions end after month 36. If you need a car for seven years, the lease side should include the cost of starting another lease, while the purchase side should include the vehicle's remaining value after seven years.

What belongs on the lease side

A lease payment reflects expected depreciation during the lease plus a rent charge, taxes, and fees. The advertised payment may exclude substantial cash due at signing.

  • Due at signing, including any cap-cost reduction
  • Money factor and lease residual
  • Acquisition and disposition fees
  • Mileage allowance and realistic excess-mileage exposure
  • Wear, damage, insurance, and early-termination obligations

What belongs on the purchase side

Include the down payment, interest, taxes, fees, operating costs, and the outstanding loan balance if you sell before payoff. Then subtract a conservative resale value. The resale value is what converts ownership into equity; leaving it out makes buying look artificially expensive.

When leasing can be reasonable

A lease may fit drivers with predictable low mileage who value warranty coverage and replace vehicles frequently. It can also limit exposure to uncertain long-term resale value, although that risk is reflected in the lease price and terms.

Avoid making a large lease down payment solely to lower the advertised monthly number. Cash paid upfront is still cost and can be exposed if the vehicle is stolen or totaled, depending on the contract and insurance settlement.

When buying is usually stronger

Buying tends to improve as the ownership period extends beyond the loan because payment-free years and resale equity have time to matter. It also avoids recurring acquisition charges and mileage restrictions, although the owner accepts repair and resale risk.

Use your own numbers

Compare the two choices side by side.

Change every assumption, including vehicle model year, trade-in value, loan length, operating cost, depreciation, and whether the cash-flow difference would actually be invested.

Open this comparison in CarCost →

Sources and further reading

CarCost uses primary consumer and government guidance where available. Linked sources support the concepts in this guide; your actual offer and local rules control your transaction.